Brilliant (diamond cut)
From ArticleWorld
Most cuts of a diamond result in a heavy loss of the diamond's original weight. That is why diamonds are cut according to the shape of the rough stone. If the stone is octahedron, then round cut is best suited. But if the stone is oddly shaped, then fancy cut is preferred to reduce the weight loss. However, the round cut, which is widely acclaimed, is also called brilliant cut.
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History
Brilliant cut diamonds have evolved and improved over time. Brilliant cut was first introduced in the middle of the 17th century. Having 17 facets on the upper crown, which was popularly known as double-cut brilliant, this stone was known as a mazarin. But Peruzzi, a famous Venetian polisher, increased the facets to 33 and the stone came to be called a triple-cut brilliant diamond.
It was around 1900 that diamond-cutting tools improved to the point where a better shape of round cut diamonds could be achieved. Under the able analysis of Marcel Tolkowsky, calculations were made to help strike a proper balance between the brilliance and the fire of the diamond, thereby giving it the best possible look. All of Marcel Tolkowsky's calculations are written down in a book called 'Diamond Design'.
Facets proportion
Today's brilliant cut diamonds have 58 facets; 33 in the crown and 25 in the pavilion. All girdles are faceted and the facet may vary from 32, 64, 80, or 96. However, these facets are not counted in the total because the facets maintain a standard count. But the proportion (crown height and angle, pavilion depth, etc…) may vary from stone to stone, and place to place.
Cut grading
Correct proportion of angles and depth are key to best optical performance. The relation between the crown angle and the pavilion angle is what determines the appearance of a diamond cut. If the crown angle is somewhat steeper, then the pavilion angle should more shallow and vice versa, to maintain a balance.
A diamond’s brilliance depends on its cut height. While an excessively cut stone will affect the passing of light and its reflection in a mass of stone, a shallow cut stone will appear dark, as the angles will not reflect the light.
The brilliant round cut diamond has the best optical performance because of its brilliance, scintillation and high sparkle to the viewer. That is why it is in great demand in the world market.
Different Cuts
Different diamond cuts and their properties are:
- Brilliant cut: the most popular and in vogue cut is 'brilliant cut'. It is also known as Round cut, American Ideal cut, or American Standard cut.
- Oval: when viewed from the top it gives an elliptical appearance. The oval cut gives the best optical appearance, but only if the cut is ideal. If an oval cut diamond looks lifeless under the light then it means it has been poorly cut.
- Emerald cut: a rectangular appearance from the top with truncated corners. This cut can be extremely beautiful and valuable depending on the color of the diamond.
- Pear shaped cut: a very popular cut that looks like a teardrop. It is used for earrings or pendants and is in high demand.
However, there is wide range of cuts available for diamonds. It is up to the viewer to make the choice that suits his tastes.